so I could go to the Raf Simons archive sale (invite stolen from hapsical). Possibly (probably) my last post before the long slog of GCSEs that awaits, unless of course I come across the elusive Meadham Kirchhoff sample sale invitation and suddenly need to post it URGENTLY. But for now, so long and WISH ME LUCK!!
SORRY about the photos, these were the best of a bad bunch. In truth however, anybody (except for everybody else sitting in front of me) would have felt a little sympathetic considering where I was sat! This was the last show I attended at LFW for the season, it was a cold-ish day and I had stood in the queue outside freezing the pearl buttons off my Christopher Kane galaxy cardigan with Fred Butler and Aaron Frew. I finally shuffled inside only to find that the rather promising-sounding ‘A6′ was in fact the back row, which I guess upon reflection shouldn’t have been too surprising. Anyhow, enough of that! Christopher Shannon put on a great show, with his signature panelling featuring in just about every garment whether a paisley bomber jacket or half-denim half-check shirt. My favourites were undoubtedly the raglan leather-sleeved sweatshirt, astrakhan-effect bomber jacket and rather unexpected but nevertheless exciting rucksacks covered with cutlery and Christopher Shannon labels. The overall mood to the collection was dark and thuggish, and could not have contrasted the backdrop of pink lights and heart balloons any more if it tried. The final run-through was greeted with thunderous applause.
Ok, and now a little food for thought… I don’t get why Christopher Shannon’s aesthetic is so often referred to as ‘sportswear’, I mean, yes the style is casual but the same could be said for Lanvin or Givenchy. It is not as if you are suddenly going to walk into a gym one day to find people on the running machines in tasseled shirts (if this is the case, please let me know which gym you belong to). I’m just saying that ‘sportswear’ seems almost belittling, and the Christopher Shannon label deserves more!
Okay, so you guys should be feeling super duper priviledged right now, as these are some of the only photographs of the incredible Katie Eary AW12 collection to exist in that vast scrapbook that is the internet, thanks to Fred Butler’s very kind donation of a ticket to the highly exclusive show! Fred Butler has some lessons in generosity to share with the world, but that’s another story. Its all about orcs, prosthetic ears and furry hoofs for now. That’s right, Katie Eary went for Lord of the Rings chic for AW12, designing a uniform for her shady ‘middle earth battalion’ .
The whole collection was (dare I say it?) fierce, with models marching in shredded jeans or patent trousers, each sporting the signature Eary cap and carrying an oversized rucksack. Heavily layered looks featuring every different animal imaginable, whether faux or real – astrakhan, snakeskin, crocodile, ponyskin, maribou, fox, finn raccoon and feathers included – gave the impression of a vicious hunter success story upon the models’ shoulders. Gloves resembling straggly claws and bedraggled hair trailing behind the custom Nikes brought an element of grunge into the collection, while whip stitch visibly held the garments together like repairs to a wound. I particularly loved the astrakhan-lined box trapper hat, along with the black patent trousers which I don’t think anybody would let me get away with, and the patent rucksacks. The video that Katie made with Rankin brings to life the AW12 collection in a whole new and equally exciting way to that shown on the catwalk, I can’t do much to describe it other than let you see for yourselves.
A visionary collection as I’m sure Kanye, who was sitting in the front row, would agree. Now I can’t wait to see what appears on Katie’s online shop!
Fred Butler’s AW12 collection sees the pastel trends of SS12 safely into next season, with braided ropes giving off the candy-scented childlike qualities of marshmallow strings, and valentine-themed knitwear to be just a little practical. This time Fred went for a sit-down presentation, a new venture for her as I believe, which was shown 4 (!!) times in quick succession due to its astounding popularity. Fred told me after the show that she had wanted to secure some buyers this season, something that was clearly reflected in the slightly more wearable collection than previously seen, but which still managed to retain its outlandish and psychedelic Butler tendencies. Although the knitted heels, paper elements and shoulder pads won’t go into production, studded and plaited headpieces and bracelets, along with the knitwear in four colourways form a concise and considered collection, which was influenced by sushi tones and kimono knots. Pink hair optional.
The Pringle AW12 collection was a nice surprise for me, as I wasn’t sure what to expect being rather unfamiliar with the brand’s previous collections. Held in the Philips de Pury space in Victoria, the atmosphere hinted that this was one of the more important and anticipated collections at LFW, particularly with Scott Schuman among hundreds of other streetstyle photographers wandering about outside the venue. Now onto the show…
Dip-dyed hair and a colour scheme of mustard, bubblegum pink and mint among many other tones modernised a brand which prides itself on tradition. Even knitwear, for which Pringle made its name, seemed to share centre stage with panelled and pleated overcoats echoing school uniforms and the more rebellious waxed cotton copper-coloured shirts. Ruffled contrast collars on jumpers paired with sharp black overcoats reminded me of Anne Hathaway (once she adopts some style) in The Devil Wears Prada, while the accentuated ribs on shoulders and arms (see 3rd photograph) evoked a Tron-like armour. My favourite pieces – the deep V-neck bubblegum jumper and aubergine coat with bubblegum collar. The knitted dress (6th photo) definitely didn’t strike a chord however.
The Margaret Howell AW12 salon show in the spacious Wigmore Street store revealed a collection with a hard outer shell of masculinity which shields the inner girl. Herringbone blazers, polo shirts, cardigans and bobble berets all evoked the look of a country walk, which was reinforced by duffel coats and shearling later on. Khaki greens evolved into grays, blues and eventually blacks, and made me think just the slightest bit of army wives of the second world war (?!). Although I must say that Margaret Howell’s designs are far too safe for my liking, I was pleased to see that the natural beauty of the models complemented the unpretentious collection, and also pleased that I finally had the chance to properly photograph my style icon Yu Masui, who I had seen in Paris a couple of weeks ago and would see again later at Pringle and Katie Eary!
